The Victorian era, which spanned the reign of Queen Victoria from 1837 to 1901, was a time of profound change in art, fashion, and culture. Jewelry, in particular, underwent a significant evolution throughout this period, reflecting the various phases of Queen Victoria’s life, societal norms, technological advancements, and the shifting tastes of the public. Victorian jewelry is known for its intricate designs, symbolism, and the diverse array of materials used, making it one of the most fascinating eras in the history of adornment.
This article will delve into the different periods of Victorian jewelry, exploring the defining characteristics of each phase, and highlighting the significance of mourning jewelry, sentimental pieces, cameos, and lockets.
The Three Periods of Victorian Jewelry
Victorian jewelry is generally divided into three distinct periods : the Early (or Romantic) Period, the Mid (or Grand) Period, and the Late (or Aesthetic) Period. Each phase mirrored the personal life of Queen Victoria and the broader cultural and societal shifts happening in Britain during her reign. Let’s take a closer look at each of these periods, their defining styles, and the types of jewelry that were most popular.
1. Early (Romantic) Period : 1837-1860
The Early Victorian period coincided with the early years of Queen Victoria’s reign and her marriage to Prince Albert in 1840. This phase is often referred to as the “Romantic” period because it was marked by a sense of optimism, love, and sentimentality, which was reflected in the jewelry of the time.
Characteristics :
– Sentimentality : Jewelry from this time was often infused with deep personal meaning. Pieces symbolized love, affection, and devotion, much of which was inspired by Victoria’s own passionate relationship with Prince Albert.
– Nature Motifs : A hallmark of Early Victorian jewelry was its use of natural themes. Designs often featured flowers, leaves, birds, and serpents, which symbolized eternal love or protection. For example, snake motifs were particularly popular, as the serpent was seen as a symbol of eternity and wisdom.
– Gold and Gemstones : Gold was the dominant metal used during this period, often fashioned into intricate designs or engraved with sentimental messages. Gemstones like turquoise, garnets, and amethysts were commonly used, with diamonds and pearls reserved for the wealthiest customers.
Notable Jewelry Types
– Sentimental Pieces : Lockets and brooches were often designed to hold a lock of a loved one’s hair or a miniature portrait. These sentimental pieces were meant to keep loved ones close, both in times of joy and sorrow.
– Cameos : The use of cameos—jewelry carved with a raised relief, often depicting classical figures or mythological scenes—became highly fashionable during this period. Cameos were popularized as a way to showcase one’s taste for classical antiquity, echoing the Romantic admiration for art and culture of the past.
Overall, jewelry from the Early Victorian period was delicate, highly ornamental, and deeply personal, reflecting the warmth and optimism of the era.
2. Mid (Grand) Period : 1860-1885
The Mid Victorian period is often referred to as the “Grand” period, and it was defined by a profound shift in mood and style, largely influenced by the death of Prince Albert in 1861. Queen Victoria entered a long period of mourning, which had a significant impact on fashion and jewelry. The jewelry from this time reflected a more somber, introspective tone, and mourning jewelry became a major trend.
Characteristics
– Mourning Jewelry : The death of Prince Albert led to the rise of mourning jewelry, a practice that became deeply embedded in the culture of the time. Queen Victoria’s public display of grief set a trend for wearing black mourning attire and jewelry made from materials such as jet, onyx, and black enamel. Mourning jewelry often included symbols of sorrow, such as weeping willows, urns, and skulls.
– Heavier, Darker Designs : Jewelry during this period was more substantial and less delicate than in the earlier Romantic period. Darker materials like jet (a type of fossilized coal), vulcanite (a form of hardened rubber), and bog oak were commonly used.
– Symbolism : Alongside mourning jewelry, symbolism remained a key feature of Mid Victorian jewelry. Pieces often depicted symbols of eternity, faith, and remembrance, such as anchors, crosses, and ivy leaves (which symbolized loyalty and everlasting love).
Notable Jewelry Types
– Mourning Jewelry : Mourning jewelry was typically black and stark, often featuring a lock of hair from the deceased embedded in rings, brooches, or lockets. Hair jewelry, in particular, became an art form, with intricate weavings of hair creating sentimental keepsakes.
– Lockets : Lockets continued to be popular during this period, often worn as a way to keep the memory of a loved one close to the heart. Many lockets from this time featured mourning symbols or included compartments to hold a photograph or a lock of hair.
The Mid Victorian period was defined by its heavier, more substantial designs and a darker aesthetic, but it was also a time of deep emotion and reflection, as jewelry became a way for people to express their grief and remembrance.
3. Late (Aesthetic) Period : 1885-1901
The final phase of Victorian jewelry, known as the Late or Aesthetic period, saw a shift away from the heavy, somber tones of the Grand period towards a lighter, more whimsical style. As Queen Victoria’s mourning period gradually came to an end, the public’s taste for jewelry began to change, influenced by the growing Aesthetic Movement and the artistic developments of the late 19th century.
Characteristics
– Artistic Influence : The Aesthetic Movement, which emphasized beauty and art for art’s sake, had a profound influence on jewelry design during this period. Jewelry became more eclectic, with an emphasis on nature, fantasy, and exoticism. Instead of following strict rules or symbolism, designs were meant to be beautiful and artistic in their own right.
– Lighter, More Airy Designs : Jewelry from the Late Victorian period tended to be more delicate and intricate, with an emphasis on craftsmanship and innovation. New techniques, such as enamel work and filigree, became popular as jewelers experimented with different materials and styles.
– Influence of Other Cultures : Exotic themes, inspired by Japanese, Egyptian, and other non-Western cultures, became highly fashionable. This was partly due to the influence of the Arts and Crafts movement, which emphasized handcrafted, artisanal work over mass production.
Notable Jewelry Types
– Lockets and Brooches : Lockets remained popular, but they became more decorative and ornate. Instead of mourning symbols, these lockets often featured intricate patterns, floral motifs, or colorful enamel work.
– Cameos : Cameos continued to be fashionable, but the designs became more varied, with a focus on artistic and exotic subjects. The craftsmanship of cameos improved during this period, with more intricate and detailed carvings.
The Late Victorian period was characterized by a return to lighter, more decorative jewelry, with an emphasis on artistic expression and craftsmanship. The influence of the Aesthetic Movement brought a sense of playfulness and fantasy to the designs, contrasting with the somber tones of the earlier Grand period.
Conclusion
Victorian-era jewelry is a fascinating reflection of the cultural, social, and personal shifts that took place during Queen Victoria’s long reign. From the sentimental, nature-inspired pieces of the Romantic period to the somber, meaningful mourning jewelry of the Grand period, and finally to the artistic, eclectic designs of the Aesthetic period, Victorian jewelry offers a rich tapestry of styles and symbolism. Whether through cameos, lockets, or mourning pieces, each piece of jewelry from this era tells a story of love, loss, and beauty, making it a timeless and cherished part of history.
The enduring appeal of Victorian jewelry lies in its ability to capture the emotions and values of an age, making it not just a form of adornment, but a deeply personal and meaningful art form.